The program in which Emily is enrolled consists of four elements: five weeks of intensive Thai Language study with students living with host-families in Chiang Mai; three weeks in a course called ‘Rivers’ found Emily’s class paddling down the Mekong River in Laos on kayaks and canoes to study dams and the issues that dams place on populations, both inside Laos and downstream in Vietnam; three weeks in ‘Forests’ placed students in the northern hills or mountains; then students studied ‘Oceans’ in the south of Thailand on the shore of the Andaman Sea, or the western shore near the border with Malaysia. In each of these courses outside of Chiang Mai, host-families were arranged for the students. Chances are pretty good that a visiting student to America might experience the religious diversity in four different host-families as: Lutheran, Presbyterian, Catholic, and one family might just not have any profession of faith. Emily and her fellow students experienced, Buddhism in both their Chiang Mai and Laos hosts, Animism–the way I understand it, Animism can mean a number of things, but in Southeast Asia, it generally refers to the worship of ancestors–in the hill country hosts, and Muslim in their southern families. Talk about an opportunity to enrich one’s Christian faith. (Links: ISDSI was the school, Josh Dick Photography captured the story.)
I arrived in Chiang Mai on Friday; Emily was scheduled to return from this final course the following Wednesday. I began my time in Thailand trying to get as much of my medical care out of the way before she returned.
A pretty young Thai woman named Noi was at the airport, holding a hand-printed sign proclaiming ISDSI. (The program that Emily is studying with is the International Sustainable Development Studies Institute.) Noi delivered me first to the Suan Doi House for check-in where I deposited my empty bags and signed my name on the guesthouse’s registry. My room wasn’t ready yet so Noi gave me a quick driving tour of Chiang Mai, pointing out the hospital and several other places of which I didn’t understand on account of her limited grasp of English and my non-existent grasp of Thai. She then again deposited me at the Suan Doi House where I was shown to my room.
In the plodding thirty-six hours of air and airports, I noticed little of the loss of freshness that surrounded me on my arrival. It was only while drying off after a shower, that I realized how much of that freshness, nearly all, had been lost. I then walked to Sriphat Medical Center, Faculty of Medicine, Chiang Mai University.
Having departed the crisp Michigan spring less than two days before, I walked into the street to be smothered by the moist heat trapped in the city of Chiang Mai.
In the four years since my last visit to Thailand I had forgotten much of what I had learned before of narrow sidewalks with light and power poles planted in them to create a significant obstacle course. Power lines are generally strung high on the poles unless, of course, recent changes have necessitated the stringing of them like Christmas lights on the tops of wrought-iron fences, or hanging loosely between the meters and the shops those meters serve.
The walk paid the dividends of countering the inversion of my internal clock and the weariness I possessed from travel. My senses became aroused in the sizzle, the taste, the hum, and the aromas of Chiang Mai. While ducking a low-slung wire, my sandals slipped from under me on the wet terra cotta sidewalk. Where did that water come from? Scooters hummed and pulsed as they ferried smiles through the streets and between the roaring trucks and buses and automobiles. Frying fish sizzled from kettles, the chefs clanging their tools in the woks to provide audio accompaniment for the aromas emanating from within: coconut curries, seafood, peanut sauces, and spices. Air conditioners hummed and rained their condensation onto the sidewalks and streets below. Aha! The puzzle of the water on the sidewalk is solved. The trucks and buses and automobiles hummed and clanged as their tires passed over warped steel access covers in the street, their tires sizzling like frying fish when they hit the puddles from the condensation or rains. And putrid odors too, as that condensation drains into sewer grates, disturbing the stagnant stench below, and burning rubber, clutches, exhaust, and the decaying fruit fallen from a nearby tree. The moist heat remained constant.
I walked to Sriphat Medical Center, Faculty of Medicine, Chiang Mai University, which is the hospital that Emily’s Chiang Mai host-family recommended over the tourist hospitals in town, I ascended the elevator to the thirteenth floor. The thirteenth floor at Sriphat was such that on exiting any of the three public elevators servicing the odd-numbered floors, one faces the bank of three elevators servicing the even-numbered floors. To the left, the corridor spills into a large waiting room with seating for around 150 people that was generally filled to between sixty and ninety-five percent of its capacity during the numerous times I visited in the course of the following six weeks.
Exiting the elevator to the right, the corridor turns to the right. In this corner is situated a desk with two or three pretty women behind it, facing the elevators. Past the desk, one finds a food-service counter on the left, and access to the staff-only elevators on the right. Continuing, the corridor again turns right, with the men’s and women’s toilets on the left-hand side, beyond which this corridor spills into the same large waiting room on the right, and doors numbered from 16 to 11 along the left-hand wall of the waiting room.
Opposite from the side of the room where the corridors enter the waiting room are ten additional offices, numbered from 10 to 1. Outside of this row of doors are situated three nursing station desks with two to three pretty nurses and an occasional ugly or male nurse. I never saw more than two male nurses at one time, and on the thirteenth floor of Sriphat Medical Center, there were considerably more male nurses than ever there were ugly ones (bear with me, this is a theme for later). The doors from 11 to 16 had an additional nurse’s station in front of it.
A set of double doors is situated on the last wall, which into and out from were wheeled carts of records and files. Returning from this corner of the room to the corridor accessing the public elevators, one passed the door to the lab where blood was drawn and cups for peeing-in were distributed and collected. Then, an open area with a large desk filled a space as deep as the lab without the corresponding privacy, where sat as many as six pretty women engaged in the business of cashiers.
I stepped off the elevator to the right and went to the desk to check-in at 10:30 AM–my first contact on this trip with anybody engaged in healthcare in Thailand. I informed the woman there that I was concerned with a lump on my cheek, a hole in my nose from where a basal-cell thingey was removed several years ago, and that I wanted to be sure my heart, liver, and other organs were pulling their weight and could be relied on to continue reasonable service in the foreseeable future.
She instructed me to go to the surgeon at door 14 to get a number in the queue there, and then to go to the cardiologist at door 5.
By 1:55, the surgeon offered his diagnosis that he wasn’t going to be much use to me. He instead referred me to an ENT doctor for the facial issues I wanted addressed. Next, I saw a cardiologist who scheduled some blood work for the liver, and then scheduled a chest x-ray, an abdominal ultrasound, and a treadmill stress test that he personally would administer a bit later in the afternoon.
I found myself now in the system, and things were flying for a Friday. The ENT doctor wrote an order for a CT scan on my lump the following morning as well as an order for a pathologist to take a biopsy of the same thing on Monday Morning.
During this first day of receiving medical care in Thailand I learned I must give in to the way they do things here. I didn’t understand a great deal of the idea of arriving at a certain time and being handed a slip of paper with a number on it indicating my turn in the queue to meet with the professional. I didn’t understand what I was waiting for, or why, or even if anybody knew I was there to see sonebody. It was while I was in this state of confusion as a white-guy, that a young man approached to escort me to the lab, where a woman manning that station assimilated a giant mosquito to extract the most vital of my vital fluids (unless of course, you happen to be one of my future progeny).
I was soon escorted to the second floor where Radiology resides and where a chest x-ray was followed by an abdominal ultrasound. We, my escort and I, then ascended to the fourth floor for the treadmill stress test. I had to wait there, wired, and in a shirt sized-for-all which in Thailand means several-sizes-too-small, until the cardiologist joined us to administer the test.
My ticker’s fine.
Returning to the thirteenth floor, the GI doctor scheduled my colonoscopy for Sunday. He first required that I make another trip to the lab for another round of blood work to determine my blood’s ability to coagulate.
At this time, about 6:15 PM, after spending the past nearly eight hours in their care, I left Sriphat Medical Center carrying 5 appointment slips for work to be carried out over the next week or so.
Day one: cardiologist, general surgeon, ear, nose and throat doctor, gastroenterologist, blood work twice, chest x-Ray, abdominal ultrasound, treadmill stress test.
Having paid for all of the ‘day one’ services, I am now about US$470 lighter.
In Thailand, the sophisticated mysticism of the Great American Health Care System is absent.
As I walked through the sights and sounds and aromas on my return to the guesthouse, I received a phone call from Emily’s Chiang Mai host family. They called to ask if I would join them this evening, my first in Thailand, for a birthday party for Yod, Emily’s seven-year-old host brother.
Yod has been schooled in English and serves as this family’s translator as well as his age allows. Yod is also an excitable young man: “Ello Mister Gregg!”
“Hello, Yod,” and we proceeded to make the plans for them to pick me up at the Suan Doi House.
Fast food joints with American sounding names and branding like McDonalds and Burger King are popping up everywhere, but the idea of paying a premium for substandard food, then cleaning your own table is met with resistance on both counts by the host culture.
As Yod’s family was taking me to Yod’s birthday party on my first day in Chiang Mai, we passed a familiar looking building with a play area and a conspicuous pair of arches our front. Yod asked, “Mr. Gregg, you see McDonalds?”
“Yes, Yod.”
“Yes, Mr. Gregg! I go there once. Garbage food.”
“You did not like it?”
“No, Mr. Gregg, Garbage food! Blech!
We proceeded to a restaurant to be treated to several wonderful dishes, and where Yod was able to expel a portion of his considerable energy on children’s rides and toys with other children in the restaurant.